How to Care for Leather Boots & Shoes

Types of Leather

We'll focus primarily on full- and top-grain leather, but it's important to understand the different types of leather and identify which one is used in your boots or shoes before cleaning. The following are commonly used in footwear:

• Full-grain leather is the highest grade and the most durable. This is the top layer of the hide. You'll want to maintain it with a quality conditioner and a soft cloth for regular cleaning.

• Top-grain leather, despite its name, is the second layer of the hide. It's a slightly less durable option but still resistant to stains. Regular cleaning and conditioning will keep it in good condition.

• Suede is made from the inner layer of the hide and is the most delicate type. Avoid using water and instead use a suede brush for cleaning. If needed, the brush can be slightly damp.

• Nubuck is similar to suede but more durable. Like suede, you'll want to clean it with a brush. A waterproofing spray is also recommended for rough leathers like nubuck and suede.

Supplies

You'll need the following supplies for the steps we'll outline to clean and care for your boots:

• A soft cloth

• A soft brush

• Leather cleaner

• Leather conditioner

• Leather polish (optional)

• Waterproofing treatment

Cleaning

Apart from regularly wiping your boots or shoes down with a dry or damp cloth, you'll want to do a more thorough cleaning once every month or two. The following steps apply to most leather footwear:

1. Remove any laces (most are machine washable).

2. Use a soft cloth or brush to remove any loose dirt.

3. Apply a leather cleaner with a cloth, rubbing in circular motions. Running water can be used on leather but should be avoided with nubuck and suede. Use a cleaner specific to nubuck or suede for rough leathers.

4. Allow your boots to dry naturally, avoiding heat.

Conditioning

Regularly conditioning leather prevents drying or cracking and maintains a nice visual sheen. Choose a product specific to your type of leather, and then use a cloth to apply a small amount and work it into the material. Allow the conditioner to absorb for several hours and follow up with a cloth to buff off any excess. You'll generally want to condition your boots or shoes every few months, but this can be more frequent in especially cold or dry conditions. Look for visual indications of dryness if you're unsure. Our Hunting Boot Care Guide offers some additional tips for selecting and using a leather conditioner.

Note: Rough leathers like nubuck and suede do not require conditioning; leather conditioners can permanently darken the material.

Polishing

In addition to restoring natural shine, polishing your boots can provide an extra layer of protection for the leather. You'll want to choose a polish that matches the color of the leather. Apply it with a soft cloth in circular motions and then buff it out with a brush. Follow the instructions for your specific product, but as a general guideline, we recommend that you polish your dress shoes or boots every few weeks.

Waterproofing

Many leather conditioners have waterproofing properties, but for hiking, work, or hunting boots, you may want to use an additional waterproofing treatment—our guide on waterproofing boots provides a detailed overview. You'll want to repeat this process every few months or more frequently if you wear your boots in especially wet or wintry conditions.

Storing Your Boots or Shoes

Store your leather boots or shoes in a dry, ventilated place, avoiding hot, cold, or unstable temperatures. To better maintain their shape, you can stuff them with newspaper or shoe trees.

The process of cleaning, conditioning, polishing, and waterproofing your leather footwear can seem like a long process, but it’s the most effective way to keep it durable and looking new for years to come. Simply wiping down your boots after each wear is an easy way to prevent stains and buildup and prolong the periods between full cleanings. For additional information or tips on caring for your leather boots or shoes, you can reach out to a Footwear Expert at your local SCHEELS.